That raises the question, “What gun should I buy?” we recommend that you first visit a muzzle-loading club, talk with the shooters and take a look at the different types of firearms available (You’ll want to join a club anyway so you can learn the skills of muzzleloading from experienced shooters and have access to a range facility). You may find that you like the graceful styling of a Kentucky or Pennsylvania long rifle. On the other hand, you may prefer the short, stout Hawken rifle. Most muzzleloaders are friendly people and will often invite you to take a test shot or two with their firearms.

Another question you will want to answer is, “What ignition system should I choose?” Basically there are two. First is the Flintlock, which uses a piece of flint held in the jaws of the hammer to produce a spark and ignite priming powder held in a pan on the side of the barrel. The second is the percussion or cap-lock, which uses an explosive cap placed over a nipple to ignite the load in the barrel. The Flintlock is older, dating back to the late 1600’s, while the cap-lock dates from about the early 1800’s.

Besides a firearm, you will need a few accessories. These include a powder horn, a powder measure (never pour powder directly from the horn into the barrel! You might experience an explosion if a hot ember in the barrel ignites the powder in the horn.), round ball, patches, black powder, and percussion caps or flints. Another useful tool is a short starter, which eases the chore of starting balls into the barrel. A shooting bag with a shoulder strap is useful for carrying shooting accessories, especially when attending a walk-through event where shooting does not take place at a fixed station.

Some muzzleloading clubs also hold “Primitive” events in conjunction with their shooting competition. Primitive events include bare-bow Archery, Tomahawk throwing, Knife throwing and primitive fire-making with flint and steel. Often these items are made available for use at the event if you don’t already own them.

All three versions use a modular construction and most parts will interchange between guns. The guns upper and lower receivers are made from stamped sheet steel. Furniture on the guns is a black synthetic with the overall finish being a black phosphate that almost appears to have a paint overcoat. The guns fire from a closed bolt which is unlocked and strictly a blowback instead of the roller-delayed blowback as is used in their H&K brothers.

Tank armor remained at 1918 levels until the mid-thirties when most anti tank rifles were designed. The Lahti model 39 in 20mm was one of the largest of these rifles. The Lahti anti tank rifle was derived from the Lahti aircraft cannon of 1937. As few modifications as possible were done to produce the ground gun. A pistol grip and trigger mechanism were made; a muzzle brake, shoulder pad, sights and a bipod were fitted.

During the late fifties, many of the Lahti Model 39’s were imported into the United States. The original selling price in 1958 was $29.95! In the early sixties, they were advertised for $99.95, with ammunition selling for 85 cents per round. The firearm came in a coffin-shaped wooden box containing the antitank rifle, a cleaning kit, spare parts and eight magazines.

Other notable 20mm rifles were the Swedish M40 Bofors, the Swiss Oerlikon SSG, the Swiss S18/1000 and the Danish Madsen. By the late 1930’s, most tanks carried more armor than the anti tank rifles could penetrate and for all military purposes their use ended in 1945.

The best way to grip the gun is to lock your little finger at the bottom of the grip. This keeps the hand from slipping upwards when the gun goes into recoil. Complete the grip with your weak hand, making sure to position your weak hand’s forefinger on the trigger guard front. This acts as leverage against the cocking motion that the weak hand thumb has to perform, a nessessary procedure which prepares the pistol for the next shot.

The strong hand must have a strong, firm grip on the pistol. The weak hand must have a relaxed grip allowing it to cock the single action pistol’s hammer in a smooth and quick manner.

Gripping the single-action pistol may feel different if you are used to shooting a 1911 semi-automatic pistol. But if you spend a little time practicing this shooting tip, you will be shooting it out with the top cowboy pistoleros in no time at all.

Submachine guns are all air-cooled. Since they use pistol ammunition and are personal defense weapons rather than tactical sustained fire weapons, their primary means of cooling is ambient air. Design features such as firing from an open bolt allows air to circulate in the chamber area. Since the round is not seated in the chamber, a cook-off is avoided if the barrel is ultra hot. Sub guns also use twenty- or thirty- round clips requiring “down time” while reloading or replacing clips allowing the weapon to cool a bit between firings. Finally, some models have fins milled into the barrel. The purpose of these cooling fins is to increase the surface area of the barrel, thus allowing more of the barrel to be exposed to the air and more heat can be pulled out of the barrel. The point being is that these weapons, while certainly capable of getting extremely hot under heavy usage, were not designed for long sustained fire. Thus, ambient air is sufficient to cool the gun. The same basic design features hold true for machine rifles, such as the Lewis Gun, BAR and Benet-Mercie, of which they may or may not have cooling fins, even though they fire rifle ammunition. It is interesting to note that the Lewis Gun had an air-cooled radiator system which its inventor claimed sucked cool air in through its radiator casing.

The MK19 Mod 3 was developed and tested to meet the U.S. Government’s stringent operational performance requirements. These requirements provide the users with a weapon that works consistently and reliably in demanding combat environments.

Rate of Fire: 325 rounds/minute minimum. All guns are measured during production acceptance testing.

Targeting and Accuracy: 3-round burst must strike a 14-meter square target at 1,000 meters. Production acceptance based on all rounds striking 84-cm square target at a distance of 60 meters.

Belt Pull: MK19 must function with a 28-round hanging belt. Production acceptance based on firing a 3-round belt with an equivalent 25-round weight hanging from the belt.

Remote Firing: Must operate with solenoid-controlled triggering.

MK 19 Mod 3 Reliability

Saco Defense and the U.S. Government conduct reliability tests of the MK19 Mod 3. These tests insure that Saco production meets all reliability requirements. Reliability requirements are:

• Barrel Life-10,000 rounds minimum
• Receiver Life-25,000 rounds minimum
• Stoppages-1,000 Mean Rounds Between Stoppage (MRBS) minimum
• Failures-3,300 Mean Rounds Between Failures (MRBF) minimum

Description

Basically, the MK19 Mod 3 40mm grenade launcher is a blowback-operated, air-cooled, 40mm fully-automatic machine gun, firing 40mm grenades at a rate of 325 to 375 per minute. The effective range is 1500 meters with an extended range out to 2500 meters. The firing system is “advance primer ignition,” meaning that the firing pin will activate the primer 3/8″ out of battery before the round is fully chambered.

To operate, first point the weapon downrange. Then the feed box with belt is placed in position on the mount, or next to it if you are using the M3 ground mount (same as the M2-HB uses, with a different cradle). Make sure the bolt is forward - don’t slam fire it - ease it forward. With the cover open, lay the first round in the belt in the feed tray, female side of the link first - push it across the first pawl - do not “roll” it, the pawl won’t do its job. This leaves the round between the first and second pawl. Make sure that the rounds are straight and firmly seated. Move the feed slide assembly to the left, then close the top cover(!). Grab the handles (palm down), rotate them to horizontal, then pull the chargers sharply to the rear. Push them to for ward, and rotate the handles up. To load your first round, place the safety in the “fire” position, and press the trigger. The bolt will spring forward - you have now loaded the first round onto the bolt face. Pull the chargers sharply to the rear (Yes, y ou need to charge twice). You now have a live round on the bolt face, to the rear, ready to fire. Push the charger handles forward and rotate up, the MK19 will not fire if the charging handles are not in the “up” position. Now, place the safety on “safe” unt il ready to fire.

For example, the 7.62×39 mm assault rifle round fired by the AK47 is literally and archetypally “intermediate” in case length between the more venerable 7.62×54 mm Russian battle rifle round and the 7.62×25 mm submachine gun cartridge.

In consequence of firing cartridges of longer case length and greater power, battle rifles may also be larger and heavier on average than assault rifles, which are typically carbine-length (and which were consequently also designated “machine carbines” by the Germans and “automatic carbines” by the Soviets): but the most salient difference is in the case length and, hence, overall size, power and external ballistics (velocity, energy, trajectory and range) - of their respective cartridges. Indeed, concern about effective range was the ostensible reason that Hitler did not initially approve the development of downsized “assault rifle” cartridges and concern about external and terminal ballistic performance motivated (and continues to fuel) criticism of the adoption of the 5.56×45 mm assault rifle by the U.S. and other NATO nations. Such opposition to the adoption of “intermediately” powered assault rifles has in turn motivated a normative distinction between assault rifles and battle rifles, whereby the latter are commended by some as “true” battle rifles or more battle-worthy individual weapons by virtue of their more powerful ammunition.

Battle rifle discussion forum

Controlling Rearward Push

Body position, weight distribution and gun mount all factor into controlling rearward motion. Try to keep an aggressive stance. Use an athletic stance, head in front of shoulders which are in front of hips which are in front of knees etc… Weight distribution should be even over both feet and with about 75% of your weight on your toes. What about weird shooting positions you ask? Try to bend your knees for better balance and control. Bend a little and roll with the punches. Gun mount (or upper body form) should be a natural and especially a neutral stance. Pushing or pulling with the hands or upper body will do nothing but drive the gun in the same direction, (there goes sight alignment). Grip tension was covered in the last tip. Using all of the above information should give you a comfortable stance and mind set to achieve any of your most difficult shots.

Muzzle Rise

Can you control muzzle rise physically? Very little. Understanding it’s cycle will help you use muzzle rise to your advantage. The recoil cycle: After all of the preliminary controls have been exercised (sight alignment, trigger squeeze) the gun goes off, the muzzle will rise, (straight up? were you pushing or pulling with your hands or upper body?), The muzzle will pause at the top of the arc, (are you watching the follow through? If this was your second required shot on paper and it was acceptable then at this point you will start to drive the gun toward the next target.), then the muzzle will return back down on target, (are the sights aligned for an acceptable second shot?). Knowing the recoil cycle will help you to focus on each shot placement, not just the first one. Pointing the gun and pulling the trigger 2 times is wrong, (unless the target is at very close ranges, and even then you should watch the recoil cycle to assure your hits.)

1. Barrel Bushing
2. Slide
3. Barrel
4. Barrel Link
5. Barrel Link Pin
6. Extractor
7. Recoil Spring
8. Recoil Spring Guide
9. Recoil Spring Plug
10. Firing Pin
11. Firing Pin Stop
12. Firing Pin Spring
13. Magazine Spring
14. Magazine
15. Magazine Release
15a. Magazine Release Spring
15b. Magazine Release Plunger
16. Mainspring Housing
16a. Mainspring
16b. Mainspring Cap
16c. Mainspring Retainer Pin
16d. Mainspring Cap Pin
17. Mainspring Housing Pin
18. Hammer
19. Hammer Strut
20. Hammer Strut Pin
21. Hammer Pin
22. Grip Safety
23. Slide Stop
24. Trigger
25. Thumb Safety
26. Grips
27. Grip Screw Bushing
28. Grip Screw
29. Sear Spring
30. Disconnector
31. Sear
32. Sear Pin
33. Plunger Tube
33a. Plunger Spring
33b. Slide Stop Detent Plunger
33c. Thumb Safety Detent Plunger
34. Rear Sight
35. Ejector
36. Ejector Pin
37. Front Sight

A very attractive feature is the safety system. They incorporate a traditional frame-mounted safety with a decocker, all on the same lever. Pressing down brings the gun off-safe, and pressing down firmly a bit further decocks the gun. Thus, the guns may be carried cocked-and-locked, hammer down and safety off, or hammer down and safety on.

Accuracy is excellent. My PT945 and 908 both have excellent single and double action trigger pulls, which contributes to accurate shooting. Reliability is also good. The only downside to this series of pistols is the lack of aftermarket accessories, especially grips, for them. However, out of the box they are quite attractive, with Novak-style rounded sights, a very nice finish in stainless steel, and a logical layout of controls.

Links:
Taurus Semi-Auto Handguns
Taurus Revolvers

FN (Fabrique Nationale) Logo:

The 1910 in parts (click to enlarge):

Some characteristics:

Caliber: 9mm short (.380auto) or 7,65mm browning (.32acp)
Barrel: 87,5mm long with 6 right fields
Magazine: 7 bullets in 7,65mmm and 6 bullets in 9mmshort
Total length: 153mm
Total height: 100mm
Weight: 7,65mm Browning: 580gr, 9mmshort: 570gr
Muzzle velocity: 7,65mm Browning: 280m/sec, 9mmshort: 260m/sec

• Remington 12 ga. 3″ 1187 Magnum Parkerized Receiver with an 18″ Barrel Rifled Barrel
• Scout Optics with Extened Eye Relief
• E-Z Feed Direct Feed Lifter Assembly
• Extended Magazine Tube, Total Capacity: 7 rounds
• Extended Cocking Handle
• Side Saddle Shell Carrier, Extended Capacity: 6 rounds
• Synthetic Buttstock and Fore Grip
• Adjustable and Collapsible Bipod
• High Visibility, Non-Binding Follower
• Performance Rated Magazine Tube Spring
• Jumbo Head Safety
• Multi-Purpose Tactical Sling
• Quick Detachable Steel Buttstock and Bipod Swivel

Description: Highly modified Remington 12 gauge Model 1187P Magnum, Parkerized Shotgun with an 18″ Rifled barrel and Scout Optics. Total capacity, 7 rounds. Overall length: 38.50″. Weight: 9.50 lbs.

Sights: The sight consists of a 2.75 power long eye relief optical scope with a duplex reticle. It is mounted to the barrel using matt finished steel rings and in position forward of the receiver. To reduce wear, the scope body is made of hard anodized aluminum and has a non-reflective matt finish. To maintain consistent accuracy, the barrel is attached to the receiver using heat-treated screws.

Magazine: The magazine tube consists of the standard tube to which a chrome-moly extension has been added. In addition, a high visibility, non-binding follower made of green fluorescent grade ABS nylon has been installed to insure smooth operation. For positive feeding, a performance rated magazine tube spring, made of stress relieved high carbon spring wire, is also included. Both ends of the spring have reduced diameters which fit the tail of the follower. To increase the firearms total shell carrying capacity to 13, a 6 shot side saddle is attached to the receiver.

Stocks: For strength and shooter comfort, a Monte Carlo type buttstock made of fiberglass filled polypropylene with a special recoil absorbing round edge buttplate has been installed. The fore grip is made of the same material as the buttstock.

Bipod: For support during firing, an adjustable and collapsible bipod made of steel has been attached. The legs of the bipod are designed to pivot forward and out of the way when not needed. They may also be extended in length to accomodate the contour of the surface upon which it is placed.

Sling: The three-way adjustable action sling is made of mil-spec nylon which is 11/4″ wide. It is designed for use in different modes of carry such as; standard over the shoulder, hands free over the chest, and in a back pack carry position. It attaches to the firearm at the buttstock and bipod with a steel quick detachable swivel.

Safety: For use in colder climates and/or where gloves are required, a jumbo head safety made of pre-heat treated chrome-moly steel has been installed.

• Is the firearm unloaded?
• Is the firearm locked or secured in a rack or case?
• Is the rack or case in an area away from children?
• Did you check the firearm before storing?
• Is the firearm clean and lubricated to the manufacturer’s specifications?
• When handling the firearm do you keep your finger off the trigger?
• When you handle a firearm is the action opened immediately to check for ammunition?
• Has the handler of the firearm completed a firearms safety course or its equivalent?
• Are all of your firearms in good working order?
• Do you always keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction?
• Is the whole family familiar with the firearms in the home?
• If the firearm has been regularly used has it been inspected by a qualified gunsmith in the last two years?
• Is the ammunition stored in a separate place than the firearm?
• Is the ammunition locked or secured?
• Is the ammunition is a box which identifies it accurately?

Why would that be? Mainly because the way that people find that number is different. For example, Jane’s Defence rates handguns and rifles by finding out how far an averagely trained soldier can hit the target once using the entire magazine. That means that a match-grade .357 revolver (with 6 rounds in the cylinder) would have the same number as a standard 9mm autoloader (with 15 rounds in the magazine).

The Russians are the worst at this. They measure how far the bullet will travel under absolutely favorable conditions and they then assign that number to their guns (they call this the “killing range”). What’s wrong with this? Well, the bullet would have lost most of it’s velocity by the time it reaches the end of it’s flight, so it certainly can’t be expected to kill anyone if it’s just kisses your T-shirt and drops to the ground. In fact, most bullets would have slowed down below killing speed before they reach the mid-way point.

Another factor is that most russian arms just aren’t that accurate. Sure, they’re very robust and easy to maintain, but it’s rather problematic to actually hit anything at even half the distance that Western arms can easily perform.

Machine Guns for Sale Today

The Internet is essentially a large pool of information and commerce. Today when you have a question about weapons, the answer is easily found on the Internet. You can either find the information posted on a website, or you can post the question on a message board and let someone else answer the question for you.

Sometimes finding machine guns for sale can be a difficult task because they are highly sought after. There are many people like yourself, who find machine guns fascinating and enjoyable, thus creating a large demand. When you are looking for automatic machine guns, you can use the information resources of the Internet to locate a site where you can buy these guns.

While the Internet is a great information tool, you need to always be aware of your information source. When you are looking for machine guns online, be sure to use a recommended website. That way you can be assured the highest quality of information.

Fortunately, a handful of innovative and dedicated manufacturers have recently introduced a line of .338s that meet that bill. Drawing upon years of research and experience to craft competition rifles of exceptional performance and accuracy, these top manufacturers have set a new standard not likely to be surpassed in the foreseeable future. That means that if you know where to look, you can now confidently choose a weapon that will exceed your expectations for years to come.

How Good Are the Best .338 Lapua Magnum?

The best .338 Lapua on the market improve upon their predecessors in virtually every significant respect. Lightweight, featuring remarkably effective tactical muzzle breaks, and accurate to an astonishing 1/2″ M.O.A., these are weapons that will make your pulse race, in or out of competition. Efficient and affordable, the best of these CNC machined rifles are a true pleasure to shoot.

Now that the next generation of .338 is so close at hand, the time to make an investment in your riflery future is today. Take the time to find a manufacturer in which you can place your trust, and you will never regret having done so.

As a result, for the first time, rifles that exceed their predecessor’s standards in practically every way are now as close as your own home or office. Comprehensive, straightforward, and easily navigated, the premier manufacturer’s websites have quickly become popular destinations for shooters at every level of experience who are looking for .50 BMG rifles. And no wonder: the rifles these manufacturers offer boast world-record performances in attractive, lightweight packages.

The Technology of the Top .50 BMG Rifles

One important way in which stellar manufacturers of .50 BMG rifles have been so quickly able to break the mold of the past is by embracing cutting-edge technology. Crafting firearms in state-of-the-art facilities that employ wire and CNC machining, these visionary manufacturers have created an environment in which the sky is the limit. If you know where to look, the beneficiary of this high-tech, high-concept process can be you.

With so much on the line, there is no reason to settle for firearms that do not meet your every expectation. Thankfully, you no longer have to take this chance. Invest the necessary time to discover and explore the premier manufacturer’s sites, and then make a choice that will keep you satisfied for years to come.

Link: The Most Trusted .50 Caliber Rifles in the World

This military knife is generally a fixed-blade knife made of high carbon steel and hardened to resist breakage. The handle is often made of leather for a better grip, and, unless it is for survival use, it is non-serrated. Bayonet knives fall into this category. They have long, slender blades and can be good general purpose camping and hiking knives. Perhaps the most well-known military knives are made by Ka-Bar, a cutlery company in western New York that has been commissioned by the U.S. military since World War II. They make a wide variety of tactical and survival knives used by every branch of the military, including the U.S. Navy Seals and Drug Task Forces.

The Survival and Outdoor Knife

Military personnel in the field face situations requiring a knife that can serve many purposes. A soldier who spends time in the outdoors must have a serrated blade for sawing through vines and rope. The butt of these knives must be hardened for pounding and hammering. Their size makes it easy to convert them to spears when they are lashed to a pole. Soldiers also need multi-tools that have scissors, saws, bottle openers and more in order to be prepared for any situation that arises.

Some survival knives come with compartments in the handle for holding matches, compass, needle and thread. These knives are handy for all outdoor enthusiasts, but for the professional, they are more than just handy. Military knives can save the life of combat personnel in the field, and for this reason they are necessities for those in the armed forces.

If you enjoy shooting firearms, would you answer this question please? Gun Control advocates, while I respect your opinions, I would ask that you not make any rude or politically charged statements. I want this to be a polite discourse for those of us who believe in the 2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution’s right to keep and bear arms. Firearms enthusiasts, what are your favorite handguns, and why?

Colt Peacemakers. Nothing like the originals. Followed by a Derringer, just for history sake. And a 1911 because almost 100 years and still a great design. And it will get your bacon out of trouble the way it did for our Grandpas.

Anaconda .44 magnum it will realy kick u hard…

Rugers… nice steady and easy to aim… plus their German Made.

The 45-only real reason for handgun is to protect oneself-you can hunt with them but most rifles are better people only hunt with pistols for a challenge-in self defense a 45 can throw out a lot of lead in a hurry-old hippie.

1911 pistol in .45 ACP.

S&W .357 magnum.

Discount Guns Online

The simplest way to find discount guns is through the power of the Internet. The Internet has created the world’s largest marketplace. By looking online, you will be able to search thousands of shops for discount guns, rather than the one or two in your town.

In addition to lower prices, you will have a greater selection of guns available to you. An individual store can carry only so many models of guns. With the Internet, you will be able to visit each of these stores and find the model and features that you desire.

Be sure to look for reputable websites when shopping for discount guns. When you visit a recommended site you are assured the highest quality product at the lowest price.

Finding Good Gun Sales

One of the time honored traditions with gun enthusiasts has been to pay a visit to their local retailer. With this, you get the benefit of seeing the gun you are interested in, but you have to pay for this privilege if you make the purchase there. Retail stores have to pay a high cost for storefronts and the labor associated with operating a store.

Today, the best way to purchase guns is through the Internet. Internet stores are able to keep costs down by purchasing in bulk and by not paying for expensive retail storefronts. Thus, the online gun store can pass its savings along to you, the consumer.

Furthermore, online retailers carry much larger selections of guns than a local retailer. When you want to find a rare or very specific item, an online retailer is a great way to go.

Concealable Safety Vests

It is essential that safety vests can be concealed by the wearer. If an assailant can see that you are wearing protection, he or she will be most likely to aim for an area that’s not protected. This could be the leg or the groin area, or even your head.

For this reason it’s really important that the type of safety vest you pick is light and flexible, so that you can successfully combine it with your other clothes in an unobtrusive way. Look for products that weigh between five and six pounds. You don’t want something too heavy, but on the other hand, safety vests that are too light are unlikely to offer sufficient protection.

When choosing safety vests, look for garments that give good coverage both front and back, and as much protection as possible at the sides too. You will find many online outlets for this kind of safety apparel, and will be able to order online too. This will give you a chance to select a company that can offer you personal tailoring in your safety vest. It is vital that it fits perfectly, including being long enough. If it doesn’t fit as it should, it won’t be able to do its job.

Do You Have Adequate Firearm Protection?

How far you’re prepared to go in securing adequate firearm protection probably depends on how much of a threat you’re facing. Remember that most criminals, no matter how deadly they are, would rather get out of a situation without a gunfight, so if you are carrying a handgun you may find that they’ll make a getaway before any shots are actually fired. But to stay safe in those situations where your handgun is not enough, you need to be wearing protection.

Wearing at least a level II protective vest will give you protection against most hand guns and will at least reduce the severity of injury should you be shot with something of heavier caliber. While this may not sound like much of a consolation, any level of firearm protection is a lot better than nothing. For those who can afford them, there are level III and IIIA vests. The IIIA vests can be upgraded to a IV with the addition of rigid armor plates. These will protect against even automatic rifle fire, and shrapnel or a hand grenade explosion.

Aside from carrying a handgun (if it is legal in your state) and wearing some sort of protective clothing, what other steps can you take towards firearm protection? There are many simple and effective ways to add safety shields to your vehicle now. Dyneema shields for example are thin and lightweight, and can easily be installed without making major alterations to your car. This can add a level of security that you can depend on at all times.